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Thailand: Why This, Not That

Article by

Duncan Greenfield-Turk

I've just got back from a trip to Thailand, and I really wanted to talk about why I went there, where I stayed, and, most importantly, would I send you there.

My honest answer is something that has shaped how I've designed journeys: it depends on who's asking.

All four hotels I was fortunate enough to visit were exceptional, but each one suits a very specific traveller and a very specific experience. There are some I'd suggest for a honeymoon and another that would work perfectly for a family trip with your grandparents.

So, instead of just listing off where I stayed, here's my thinking and which one might be best for you.

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Why Kimpton Maa-Lai, Not the River

The riverside hotels in Bangkok are wonderful, and if you want to watch the longtail boats go by at breakfast, I'd never talk you out of one. But they do keep you slightly apart from the city, and sometimes being in the thick of it fits. And it's one of the reasons I love visiting Bangkok.

Kimpton Maa-Lai is on Langsuan, a short walk from Lumphini Park and close to One Bangkok, the huge new development that's turning this part of the city into a vibrant, must-visit place.

The rooms are generous in all regards, the food is excellent, the staff are superb, and there's a proper buzz about the place, from the lobby all the way up to Bar.Yard on the roof. I liked it so much I've already moved a client's honeymoon there for next year.

One tip: walk over to Lumphini early, before the heat, when half the neighbourhood is out running or doing tai chi under the trees. It's the best introduction to Bangkok I know.

Plan to spend: Three nights.

Best for: Couples and anyone who wants to be out in the city rather than looking at it from the water.

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Why Samui for Two, Not the Family

I love Koh Samui, and it's an island I can happily keep coming back to. The Six Senses Samui is as lovely as the island and ideal for anyone looking for a romantic getaway. The property sits on a headland at the northeast tip of the island with the villas tucked into the slope and oozes that barefoot-luxury style that makes island life so good.

Now, here's the thing: that same hillside is why I wouldn't bring young children or elderly people. The resort runs over several levels, and there are steps everywhere, which is part of the charm when there are two of you but hard work with a pushchair. Wellness sits at the centre of everything here, so give yourself time to use it: book a treatment for your first afternoon and then let the exceptional staff take care of the rest.

Three to four nights is the sweet spot. By the fourth morning you've had the best of it, and there's more of Thailand waiting. If stairs are a concern for anyone travelling with you, don't worry. Simply tell us before you book, and we'll steer you to the right villa.

Plan to spend: Three to four nights.

Best for: Couples, romance and a proper rest.

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Why Koh Yao Noi, Not Phuket

This was my highlight of the trip, and I didn't expect that from the third hotel in a fortnight.

Six Senses Yao Noi sits on a hillside in the middle of Phang Nga Bay, looking straight out at the limestone karsts everyone flies to Thailand to see. It's rustic, but that's elegant rustic, and the staff are some of the best. I'm clearly not the only one who thinks so, because Travel + Leisure readers have just voted it the best resort in Thailand.

You're about 45 minutes by boat from Phuket, which, for me, is the perfect spot, as it lets you choose when you want to be in the hubbub or not. From here you can head out to the small islands scattered around the bay or explore Koh Yao Noi itself with ease. I'd recommend a boat for first light, before the day trips from Phuket arrive, and it's something we can help with. One thing to know: the tide goes a long way out, so this is a place for the view and your own pool rather than long swims off the beach.

Like Samui, this is one for couples or families with older children, and I'd give it four nights at least. If you'd like a bit of Phuket or Krabi as well, both are a short boat ride away and are the perfect pairing.

Plan to spend: Four nights, at least.

Best for: Couples, families with older children, and anyone who wants Phang Nga Bay from their own pool.

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Why the InterContinental, Not Another Six Senses

The last stop was the surprise. InterContinental Phuket sits on Kamala Beach on the island's west coast, and it's very much an InterContinental, so you know exactly where you are the minute you walk in. After two Six Senses, I thought that might feel like a step sideways, but I was wrong.

The resort is split in two: the Club InterContinental Beach Wing sits right on the sand with its own lounge and an infinity pool looking out over the Andaman Sea. The Kamala Mountain Wing is the bigger side and carries the pool villas, some with up to three bedrooms. One side I'd put couples, while the other is perfect for families. Add the beach, a kids' club and enough good restaurants and bars that nobody gets restless, and it's an easy place to spend a few days.

This is the one I'd choose for families and multi-generational trips but works just as well for couples who want the beach on their doorstep. Five nights is about the most I'd do, and I'd pair it with some time in Koh Samui, just a short flight away.

Plan to spend: Up to five nights.

Best for: Families, multi-generational groups, and couples who want a beach.

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Why September Worked, and Why February Works Better

I'll be honest, September isn't the best month for this trip. It was just the month that worked for my calendar.

The reason is that Thailand's two coasts run on opposite monsoons. Samui is in the Gulf and sheltered from the southwest weather, so late summer is lovely, while November is its wettest month. Koh Yao Noi and Phuket are on the Andaman side, where the dry season runs from November into April. September gave me a good Samui and a green, dramatic Andaman with the odd afternoon of rain.

What I'd recommend to you, especially if you want the best of both coasts in one trip, is to go between January and April and target February and March.

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The Route and Who It's For

Thailand is one of those unique countries where if you're looking for a honeymoon, a family vacation with grandparents in tow or a friend's beach trip, you'll find exactly what you need.

And with Thailand now the first country in Southeast Asia to recognise same-sex marriage, it's an easy honeymoon to say yes to.

Tell us who's travelling and when, and we'll design the journey that fits you best. If you'd rather look at the rooms first, you can explore all four on The Hotel Desk.

Good to know

Thailand: your questions answered

When is the best time to visit Thailand for both coasts?

Between January and April, with February and March the sweet spot. Thailand's two coasts run on opposite monsoons: Koh Samui in the Gulf is at its wettest in November, while the Andaman side, including Phuket and Phang Nga Bay, is dry from November into April. February and March are when both are at their best in the same trip.

Is September a good time to visit Thailand?

It depends on the coast. In September Koh Samui, sheltered in the Gulf from the south-west monsoon, is lovely, while the Andaman side around Phuket and Phang Nga Bay is green and dramatic, with the odd afternoon of rain. For both coasts at their best, go in February or March instead.

Should you stay by the river or in the city in Bangkok?

Stay in the city if you want to explore Bangkok rather than watch it from the water. The riverside hotels are lovely for longtail boats at breakfast, but they keep you slightly apart. Kimpton Maa-Lai on Langsuan is a short walk from Lumphini Park and close to One Bangkok, and three nights there is about right. Walk to Lumphini early, before the heat, when half the neighbourhood is out running or doing tai chi.

Is Six Senses Samui suitable for young children?

Not really. Six Senses Samui sits on a headland at the north-east tip of Koh Samui, with the villas tucked into the slope and steps everywhere, which is part of the charm for couples but hard work with a pushchair or for less mobile travellers. Three to four nights is the sweet spot. If stairs are a concern, Global Travel Moments can steer you to the right villa before you book.

How do you get to Koh Yao Noi, and how long should you stay?

By boat. Koh Yao Noi sits in the middle of Phang Nga Bay, about 45 minutes by boat from Phuket, and Krabi is a similarly short boat ride away. Give Six Senses Yao Noi four nights at least, and take a boat out at first light, before the day trips from Phuket arrive.

Can you swim off the beach at Six Senses Yao Noi?

Not for long swims. The tide goes a long way out at Koh Yao Noi, so this is a place for the view of the Phang Nga Bay karsts and your own pool rather than the beach. Travel + Leisure readers have voted Six Senses Yao Noi the best resort in Thailand.

Where should families stay in Phuket?

InterContinental Phuket Resort on Kamala Beach, on the island's west coast. The Kamala Mountain Wing has pool villas with up to three bedrooms, there is a kids' club and plenty of restaurants and bars, and the Club InterContinental Beach Wing sits right on the sand for couples. Up to five nights is about right, and Koh Samui is a short flight away if you want to pair the two.

Is Thailand a good honeymoon destination for same-sex couples?

Yes. Thailand is the first country in Southeast Asia to recognise same-sex marriage, which makes it an easy honeymoon to say yes to. Six Senses Samui suits romance and a proper rest, Six Senses Yao Noi puts Phang Nga Bay in front of your own pool, and Kimpton Maa-Lai gives you a few nights in the thick of Bangkok.

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about the author

I’m Duncan Greenfield-Turk, and I’ve spent my life crafting extraordinary journeys that leave lasting impressions. Born in South Africa, my roots are steeped in diversity and adventure, and this inspires my approach to luxury travel design.

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